The winter months give us the opportunity to slow down a little and evaluate all the occurrences of the hectic spring through fall seasons.  As landscapers, we sometimes forget there may be very basic questions in our clients’ minds concerning why we do things in a certain way—why we choose some materials over others, or why we plant plants in a particular fashion.  So, over the next month or so, we hope to offer some primary information about how we landscape and why we do the things we do.

 

One of the questions we are asked by clients most often is one that we honestly don’t pay very close attention to, and that is, “What kind of edging should I use to line my landscape beds?”  Quite frankly, we sometimes gloss over this detail because, generally speaking, we don’t really like most edgings of any type.  We find them artificial in appearance and an intrusion on the garden; at best, they are a necessary evil. That having been said, we do realize that in order to maintain a neat and orderly landscape “picture”, edgings are often necessary—especially for the homeowner who doesn’t have time to putter around the garden. The following are the primary types of edging we use on our landscape installations.

 

A natural or “shovel cut” edge is probably our favorite type of edging.  It is simply a sharply defined cut or trench in the yard that clearly designates the landscape bed, but naturally blends into the overall garden.  It is attractive, easy to maintain or change, and can be dug to any depth: shallow for annual or perennial beds, quite deep for large tree and shrub beds if so desired.  Unfortunately, this option also requires periodic maintenance to keep it looking its best, and is not the best option if you have an aggressive turf like Zoysia or Bermuda grass.

 

Plastic edging became popular around 25 years ago because it was cheap and relatively easy to install.  That is where its desirable properties end.  Cheap.  It looks artificial, it is easily damaged by lawn mowers or string trimmers, and has a tendency to heave out of the ground, thanks to our Midwestern winters.  We generally discourage using a product that doesn’t last, is unattractive, and wastes natural resources.

 

For homeowners who like a clean, neat, and low maintenance landscape, steel or aluminum can be a good solution for bed edging.  While it costs more than plastic edging, it lasts much longer, and more importantly, it virtually disappears into the gardenscape.  Metal edging can heave over time and may need to be reset after a few years; steel edging can and will rust, though its very narrow profile prevents this from being an eyesore. (One note of caution: if you have small, bare-footed children, walking on or standing on steel edging can be quite uncomfortable.)

 

Our final types of edging are perhaps the best and most useful types, but need to be used with caution and restraint.  Brick and stone edging are very long lasting, can be quite attractive in the right situations, and can be effectively used to help control drainage or water issues.  However, the style of house and overall landscape should dictate the possible use of stone or brick.  If the house is of brick or stone construction, then a solid edge of comparable material can be quite pleasing, or if the property contains hills and valleys with stone outcroppings, etc., then stone edging can be very appropriate.  Additionally, if water is being introduced into the landscape, then stone is often a natural choice. However, ranch homes with wood siding often do not make the best backdrop for rows of granite or limestone rocks lining the yard.  Brick and stone tend to be quite expensive, and though installation is usually not complicated, it can be quite labor intensive.

 

The above are the primary types of edging we install.  These of course are not the only types available on the market; in some instances, especially where water is involved (man- made features or naturally occurring) decorative gravels can be used in “bands” to delineate edges, provide buffers, offer walking surfaces, and blend together stone areas with turf.  Other options include poured concrete borders (think “forever” and I hope I don’t ever change my mind or the plants ever grow too big) and various types of wood edging—none of which work very well in the Midwest.

 

If you are in doubt about which edging version may be best for you, call one of the Greenleaf professionals and we will help guide you through the decision and even show you examples of what might look best in your landscape.  Happy gardening!

 

Contributing editor:  Don Archer, Don Archer Designs in partnership with Greenleaf Garden Services

Well, the inevitable is finally occurring—we’re going to talk about climate change.  But, not in the context one might expect; you see, we are of the opinion that it is indeed getting a little warmer outside.  Not because it was 60 degrees in January in Kansas City (remember the last two Januaries when everyone thought the Ice Age was coming?) but rather, looking back over the past 40 years or so, it’s just not as cold in the winter and we just don’t have as much snow as we did when we were kids growing up.  Does that mean we believe in the trendy new, man-made carbon dioxide falderal? No, far from it.  Temperature swings are cyclical.  They come and  they go; we distinctly remember in the late ‘60’s and early ‘70’s that we were being warned of a new Ice Age coming before the end of the century.  Did we just miss that cataclysmic event?

 

We are noting the climate change for one reason:  the USDA has re-drawn the Agricultural and Horticultural Hardiness Zone maps for the United States.  For virtually the entire country, the local zone hardiness has been raised one step to a warmer hardiness region.  For example, the Kansas City area has traditionally (at least for the last 30-40 years) been designated as zone 5.  This means our lower cold limits were -10 to -20 F; our new zone 6 designation means our lower cold limits are 0 to -10F.  For those professionals in the industry, this doesn’t really mean too much—we have learned through experience that many parts of the Kansas City area were zone 6.  But for homeowners and backyard landscapers, the new, official designation might give them the courage to go forth and boldly plant new varieties!

 

The addition of zone 6 plants adds a tremendous new palette of materials with which to work; hollies, azaleas, and other broadleaf evergreens comprise much of this new group.  In addition, a number of ornamental trees that thrive in zone 6 will be of great interest to local gardeners.  Japanese Snowbell (Styrax japonica) is a typically zone 6 grown tree that does very well in Kansas City, as does the Japanese Stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia).  Crape Myrtles are another traditionally southern plant that is making its way into Kansas City gardens—and not just as a woody perennial that needs to be cut back to the ground each year.  Our slightly warmer winters are allowing Crape Myrtles to actually grow into large shrubs or (might I dare venture) small trees!  Though professionals have grown these trees for years in Kansas City, many home gardeners have been timid about trying them—hopefully our new zone 6 designation will encourage many to try these and other adventurous varieties!

          

Of course all news has to come with a whole group of qualifiers—and this zone 6 news is no exception.  We will state what we tell many of our clients:  Plants can’t read.  They don’t know what zone they are in and if it gets really cold outside—they may not like it!  We would temper our enthusiasm slightly by advising that gardeners don’t go out and buy 50 Encore Azaleas and renovate their entire garden with them.   Try some new varieties and see how they perform before discarding the old standbys, but do venture out into the new zone 6 world!  If you have questions about particular varieties or if you would like some help with cultural suggestions for temperamental plants, contact your professionals at Greenleaf—we’re always glad to help.  Happy Gardening.

 

Contributing editor:  Don Archer, Don Archer Designs in partnership with Greenleaf Garden Services